The Big City

(I posted some more pictures on the previous Alhambra post)

As much as I enjoy the smaller towns, I think I prefer the big cities. I like the hustle and bustle, the activity of crowds. For example, when we arrived at our hotel in Madrid in the square below our window was a big event, the Madrid Triathlon.

The night picture is of the crowd for the triathlon, the day shot is just regular traffic. This is the Puerta del Sol Square and is called the center of the city. It is just busy almost 24/7. The day after the race there was a demonstration for "One Espania." The Catalonia region had forced a vote on separating from Spain and it passed by about 85% but was a non-binding vote so now they expect some formal discussion about it.

Lots of noise and people and a slice of the culture here. In the little towns it's mostly tourists. Here it's a mix but we walked through the square a few blocks away and it was like we were in a small town again. Quiet and comfy cafeteria with reasonable prices. You can find quiet areas in even the largest city. Yet things work so much better. WiFi is faster, public transportation is better, shops stay open, and there are just more choices.

Yesterday, Monday, I finally caught the girls' cold. But mine is worse than theirs! We decided to go see the Palacio Real of Madrid (Spain's national palace home of King Felipe and Queen Letizia) and it was amazing.

We took advantage of our age and got in for half price but the gift shop had the last laugh. I've never seen anyone shop as much as Alice! And damn if it didn't rub off on Belinda! I don't think I'll invite Alice again. 

Heading to the Alhambra

Before we leave Ronda I'll tell you about one more experience from there. The hotel was so nice and the girls so tired and coughing so much they let us stay past the normal checkout since our train didn't leave until 5:17pm. We made arrangements, well the hotel made them, to have our taxi take us on a quick tour down the hill to take some pictures looking back up at the town and bridge, then drop us off at the station. We ended up having a couple of hours at the station before the train and as we pulled in to the parking lot we could see storm clouds heading our way. And then it rained in Spain while we were waiting for the train ! I mean it poured including hail!

But what did we care. That doesn't stop a train. Well our train took us about a third the way to Granada and then we boarded a bus because they're putting in a new high speed line and the regular line was being moved.

OK, just a bus ride. Well, we caught up with the storm and between the wind, thunder, lightning and subsequent flash flood which dumped mud and rocks onto the freeway, it was an interesting ride. AND we get to repeat that Sunday on our way to Madrid. Hopefully without the storm.

In Granada we took a taxi to our hotel as it was on the other side of town, across from the Alhambra. We got in about 9pm, dropped our stuff off and had dinner in their restaurant. Nice meal, at least it was handy. Our guided t tour of the Alhambra was scheduled for 8am the next day. This hotel is very pretty, our room was nice and big and the bathroom was very clean. AND it had an elevator.

I think we have added a few more "New Rules", as Bill Maher would say. At least two nights, elevator, in a hotel. And the train system here is not like it used to be. Very few spur of the moment train rides. Most trains need reservations, which means it's more like airlines than the hop on, hop off system it used to be. Trains are still the way to go, just requires more planning and less spontaneity.

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Sept. 26

It's 8am and we're in the lobby waiting for our tour guide to show up, which she does about 8:25. Great, just the three of us. We walk across the street to join the other 22 people in our group, which is OK because some of these groups are 40 or 50 strong. Our real guide is Juan who hands us a radio receiver and headphones. The setup works great and we spend the next two hours walking the Alhambra palace and gardens, the last of the Moorish castles. Originally a fortress built in 889 and then largely ignored until its ruins were renovated and rebuilt in the mid-11th century by the Moorish emir, the Emirate of Granada, who built its current palace and walls. It was converted into a royal palace in 1333.

Belinda calls it the gem of Spain. I won't boar you with details. You can read all you want on the internet. After our tour we headed downtown on what they call a bus, I call it a big, bouncy, uncomfortable van. Kind of like the HUT shuttle to the Portland airport. Really, can no one else come up with better transport from the capitol of Oregon? HUT really is a piece of shit. The worst transport during our entire trip! I digress. We walked around a couple of squares, watched a flamenco dance group in one of them (excellente)

and then had grilled calamari including the black ink that squirts out of them. Plus Seafood Paella, kind of a rice dish. Both were pretty good. Girls enjoyed their sangria. We then decided to head to the Arabic section, the Albicin and Sacramonte, on one of those comfy, better than the HUT though, vans. We looped around the city and got back to our hotel about 5pm and slept for two hours.

Now this hotel, while nice and clean, has it's downside. Last night we wanted to check email after we all got into our beds and it didn't work. I called the front desk and the lady said "Sometimes it doesn't work in de room but come down to de lobby and use it here". Sorry I can't capture the darling accent. Belinda says we should go down in our pj's. I said fuggetaboutit. The tv also had it's problems so we just went to sleep. The hotel also needs some sound proofing but we slept OK.

So tonight we are sitting in the hotel lobby using the internet, eating pizza Belinda bought next door.  Tomorrow off on a bus and train ride to Madrid, our next to the last city.

New Rules

No more one night stands ! I mean in hotels.......traveling. I'm so confused. AND be careful at out of country ATM's. Even at bank ATM's, which is the only kind I will use, they will offer to "convert" to USD. You do NOT want to do that. There are hidden fees and you never know what those are.... They're hidden! Check out "transferwise.com" or just search for "conversion at foreign ATM". We didn't get taken because the message came up about converting or not which confused me, duh. So I tried another and got a similar message, which made me question what that was because I hadn't seen it before. Thank goodness for mobile data. Did the search and bingo. Next ATM we knew what to say (no) and got out money at a decent exchange..... I think. We'll see when we get home.

We left Toledo yesterday about 8am, changed trains in Madrid and spent about 4 hours in Cordoba. Then on to Sevilla, or was it the other way around? No, we are at the Sevilla Santa Justa train station so we must be in Sevilla, my favorite city in Spain. We arrived about 5pm and made one of the best decisions we've made on the fly, we took a taxi. $14 later after a convoluted ride through the old city we got to the absolute bestest hotel ever, the Hotel Amadeus.

OMG, this was fabulous. Not just because of our AirBnB experience. Clean, comfortable, effing AWESOME! Using Immanuel Kant's definition, it was " sublime". (That was for you Misenga) Little alcove sitting areas here and there all with pitchers of tea, orange liqueur, ice and glasses. And musical instruments all over the wall. I can't begin to describe it but it made the girls very happy. Just ask them.

We all took showers and Alice and I washed some clothes. Separately. I would wash mine in the sink, them rinse them out as I took my shower. Seemed to work ok. We had a little outdoor patio so we could hang our clothes to dry, which most did, or close enough.

We went out for a little walk to find something to eat. The girls were still feeling bad. We walked through a nice little park and found a little corner cafe and had a Spanish tortilla and a tuna and tomatoe salad. We were lost but I finally figured out how to use the GPS on the phone for walking directions. You tap the walking guy. I'm sure that's a recent update.

By the time we got back it was bed time for Alice but I wanted to go get a coffee and pastry so Belinda and I headed back out with our new GPS knowledge. We got lost again, on purpose, got money out of the ATM mentioned earlier, and found our way back to the best room in the world about 11pm.
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Sept. 24
Thursday we had breakfast on the hotel rooftop patio. Deeelightful. Then we had to leave the best room in the world for a 1:08 pm train (you like the am/pm better?)  What a bumpy ride! I didn't think a train could bounce around like that and stay on the track. We headed towards Ronda at the suggestion of Alice's daughter Angel. I was apprehensive because I hadn't read anything about Ronda and didn't know what to expect. Plus the train seemed to be taking us out in the boonies. She also recommended the Hotel San Gabriel. After the best room in the world in Seville, I was more than apprehensive. But thank you Angel. Ronda was worth bouncing around for and, while not quite the best room in the world, the hotel room is a close second. We checked in and hung up our still damp clothes and then went to find some tapas.

Alice and I had scrambled eggs with ham and mushrooms and Belinda had chicken stuffed with spinach. We meandered back to our room and checked out the map of the local area and headed out again. We stopped at a few shops where I looked for a sticker of the area that I can affix to my carry on to impress airline baggage handlers. I didn't decide to do this until Beaune so I'm missing Amsterdam, Brugge, Berlin and Prague. I'm sure I can get those on Amazon. I just won't tell anyone.

We got to the "new" Bridge built in the 18th century. What a view. The train had come in from the lowlands and I did not realize we were up on a cliff. A scary cliff. The kind that give your feet a tingling feeling when you look over the edge. We walked a little more and the girls got some ice cream to help their throats feel better, I'm looking for coffee and a pastry. We all found what we were looking for and since it was getting dark we headed back. We were all tired and hit the sack early.

Very Quick Tour of Toledo

Thank goodness the girls are both sick. Mountain climbing is out for a while. Don't worry Fatima, I rubbed Vicks on Alice's chest. I hope she stays sick the rest of the trip 😁.

We pull in to Toledo and I call our hotel and ask for directions. Actually Belinda does. Then she looks at me like "you idiot". The hotel was right across the street. Like I can remember. I made the reservation in April ! We wouldn't need a taxi after all. 

The train station was awesome

We checked in, dropped off our luggage and walked back to the train station to take the CityTour bus. It was the last one so we couldn't "hop on, hop off" and just took about a one hour tour around and through the walled city. Another wow structure. But thankful we didn't walk there. Uphill coming and going!

We got back to the hotel about 8pm (I'm now using am and pm because I was confusing myself) and tried to find a place to eat. Wrong part of town apparently. The only place open was Restaurant Hong Kong right next to our hotel. Worked for us. We had noodles and hot and spicy soup. It was very good. We walked back to our windowless room and hit the sack. Short post.

The Trip to Toledo

This was an exciting day, if you consider dealing with a cancelled train and resulting missed connections "exciting". If you do, you're not very polite. Forgive me if this post is convoluted because I am. Right now, Wednesday, we are sitting on a train at the Toledo station heading back to Madrid, then on to Cordoba and Seville, I think. I only know by looking at our itinerary. I really have no effing idea where I am or what day it is. I'll assume what I printed off what seems like months ago is correct. If not, it doesn't really matter. I'm on a train going somewhere with good friends. This 7:55 train is obviously a commuter train. No one makes eye contact but they are all very polite should they do so accidentally.

So yesterday, I think, we left our Carcassonne room and headed to the train station for a 9:30 train to Narbonne, arriving at 10:02 to catch a Madrid train at 10:34 and  on to Toledo. The monitors that indicate train status showed our train on time so we headed out to Track 2 to catch it. About 9:20 the monitor changes and indicated a "Retard 5 min". A few minutes later that changed to 10, then 15, then 40. I went inside to ask what happens if we miss our connection in Madrid and the helpful French Information lady says "Oh no problem. If the Madrid train is late, you will not miss your train." All in a cute French accent, but dead serious.

The next train to Narbonne was scheduled at 10:17 so they cancelled our train and told us to get on that one which we did, hoping the Madrid train was delayed. It wasn't. We missed it by 10 minutes. Oui, no problem.... for her.

We get into Narbonne and have 45 minutes for the next train to Madrid. No problem, just exchange our 10:40 tickets for 11:40 tickets. Right! These were the tickets that were practically impossible to get in advance. You could not believe what I had to do to get them.

Let me pause here to tell you that train travel in Europe ain't what it used to be. While the actual train system and trains are excellent and heads above what we like to think we have, the ticketing process has become complex. Used to be you just ordered your Eurail pass, hop on board any train and enjoy the best rail system in the world. Nope, not any more. It's more like the fun of trying to make your own airline reservations with multiple connections every day. Buying the pass is still easy, but now you need seat reservations on almost every train. Or so they tell you. We bought, well I bought. Belinda and Alice left the damn trip arrangements up to me. "Here's where we want to go. Make it so, Scotty." That's was Alice. Belinda wasn't quite so polite. "You better get us there buster!" I use "buster" in case any children are reading this.

So we spend $1,780 on a Global pass, meaning we can travel any 10 days in a two month period. Hop on, hop off, Mr. Miagi. (Autocorrect tried to change that to Magoo.)  Used to be that way anyway. Now you have to reserve a specific train and seats and, of course, there's a fee. Allows for no flexibility. You miss a train and, yes madame, there is a problem.

In Narbonne we rushed to the ticket counter and stood in a line of about 10 people and two agents. We had 45 minutes.... No problem. Problem!  This is France, second only to Italy in laize fair? Come see, come saw? Misenga, you know what I mean. Your problem is not my problem and I'll get to it when I want. Nine people took 35 minutes. After explaining twice to the agent she hit a couple of buttons, said "merde" a couple of times and then told me she could only get us to Barcelona. We would have to work it out there. We now had 3 minutes. I had sent the girls with all the luggage down the stairs, under the tracks, to Track C where the monitor indicated we would catch the next train, but damn if it didn't come in on A. MERDE! Double MERDE ! As I raced out the door to catch them they came running back up the stairs. They now recognize the types of trains we use. Sharp as tacks and I certainly need the help! By the way, all stations have multiple tracks and you don't walk across them. Trains don't slow down for stations, or anything else for that matter. You get hit by a high speed train you just disintegrate! To catch a train not on the track next to the station you go down stairs, or escalators in the bigger stations, go under the tracks, and back up to the correct track. I'm proud of the girls for being able to track all this at their age.

We just made it on board but headed toward Barcelona, not Madrid as we would have been had we made our connection. No problem, we'll just catch the Madrid train out of Barcelona...... Ha ha ha. What was I thinking?! When we arrived in "Barthelona" our decision was to either just hop on the next Madrid bound train and bullshit our way through or find someone to change our ticket. We went with bullshit. Bad idea. They now have airport style security at some stations. Barthelona was one of them. No boarding pass, no entry. Our BS, not Belinda Scott, got us no where. Well, it sorta did. We just got in the security line like we knew what we were doing and when they looked at our reservation, the line stopped. Everyone behind us was so excited that those "mentados touristas" gave them a chance to stand still. So we were pulled out of line, striped search, and rejected.... Not really, but it took four persons to figure out what to do. Thank God for women! The woman in charge basically said, get us seats. The guys just bumped into each other. Five minutes before the train leaves we get our seat assignments and head down the ramp.

Now we are on the train to Madrid where we just know we'll have the same issue so again, BS or legit. Again, no choice. More security BUT not as helpful as Barthelona. (For those of you who think I'm misspelling Barcelona, I'm writing it the way it's pronounced. The "C" is said with a lisp. Grathias instead of gracias, Barthelona instead of Barcelona.  In Madrid we are sent to six different people, all men! (Bastardos)!

On the fifth stop, we find the one person in the whole effing station who knows what to do. Stamps our original ticket "Cancelled", and sends us to the ticket counter to buy new ones and tells us to file a claim for a refund. Twelve Euros later we walk calmly to our Toledo train and 30 minutes later arrive at our final destination. For all the hassle I guess it was "no problem." After all we arrived only one hour later than our original schedule. And we met some interesting people and are now certified as "Information Attendants" for the Madrid-Puerta de Atocha train station.

Carcassonne and AirBnB

Holy smoly, that is one hell of a castle. I can see why Belinda wanted to come here. Either that or she loves hearing me bitch as we walked up the hill to it.  You can see how amazing it was. Just breathtaking. Inside not so much. Basically a continuation of the tourist shops down the hill. But the structure was still cool.

And this guy was fearless

But these girls were too

This is our first, and maybe last, AirBnB. When we checked the AirBnB site out this place looked very nice. Our criteria was only that it be near the station, which I guess this is. It's about a 20 minute walk through a nice part of town. We waited at the front door for Jovi, our contact, and she was prompt and helped us later at the pharmacy but that was the end of the good part. On the website this looked liked a modern, clean apartment. It's not modern and we're not sure about the cleanliness. It doesn't seem like a bad neighborhood, but then again it does. We were told not to walk in the kitchen area after 10pm so we wouldn't wake the guy downstairs. Apparently the ones upstairs didn't have the same constraints. This morning about 645 it sounded like people jousting while riding Shetland ponies. Kids crying. So that was our new wake-up time. We figured we could sleep on the train. It's five hours to Madrid.

This was a very basic apartment, not a part of someone's home nor was it a Bed and breakfast. There were two bedrooms, separated by a halfway. Alice liked that. She said we make too much noise. ?? A small common room and kitchen area and a bathroom. Size wise very good. What looked like a nice remodeled kitchen and bath on the website were just laminate flooring laid down but not finished. The toilet roll holder was broken and curtains didn't open easily. Not a clock worked so it was always "is that the right time?" Part of the ceiling in one bedroom was falling down. The place smelled musty and the girls (well really, old ladies) were afraid to take a deep breath. The soap dispenser was empty but there was a bottle of body soap. There seemed to be plenty of hot water which is probably the most important issue we look for so that was good. At $100 for the night, it just wasn't what we thought it would be. It was middle of the road pricing but bottom of the barrel facilities. All in all we rated it a 1/5.

The dinner we had last night was one of the best, and cheapest. We ate at a creperie called Le Ble Noir. At least a 4/5. One guy handled 9 tables of 24 people. Our crepes, salad and drinks were perfecto.

 

It was a short walk back to our room and a fitful sleep.

Tuesday we had to be at the train station by 917 and I'll have a whole separate post about that. Trains cancelled, connections missed, additional tickets bought, yada yada yada.

Short Day in Beaune

Our hotel in Beaune was directly across the street from the train station which was a great location. We had a metal screen that dropped down outside our window which blocked a lot of the light and noise, although there was little traffic, pedestrian or vehicle. We slept in until about 9 and then walked about 6 blocks to the old town centre.

We had a lovely quiche and coffee in a little bakery and then walked around a bit and visited the Hotel Dieu.

This was a restored poor persons hospital and for a measly 7.50 euro we were given an excellent audio guide that explained how this was established in 1443, and was presented by the "husband and wife" who set up the hospital. It continued operating until the 1970's. Very well done.

We spent about two hours in it and then went back to our walkabout. Unfortunately, Alice spied an antique show and I was on my own for another hour or so. Fortunately, for me there were a number of bakeries and I had a vanilla flan and latte. Should have waited for a Mexican restaurant for the flan.

This is a small town, about 28,000, but very nice and clean, and in the middle of Burgundy country. It was about 1500 so we decided to have a nice meal and then Belinda and Alice planned to visit one of the "caves" to taste wine. For 12 euro you get to taste 4 reds and 2 whites. B said they were all excellent. She's comparing them to Red Box.

When they went to taste wine, I walked back to the hotel room and read for a little while, napped, and read a little more. They returned about two hours later and we never left the room. It was too far to walk in for dinner and the hotel restaurant had closed early so Belinda and I shared a Snickers. (We didn't tell Alice) We were still trying to recoup from the previous 16 hour travel day so we all fell asleep early. Monday should be just 6 hours from Beaune to Carcassonne where we will spend just one night.

This is a short post. A quiet day but for me one of the highlights. The hospital museum was excellent.